Party like it's 200 AD - Festive dining in ancient Carnuntum

While today we gather around the table for sumptuous meals at Christmas, New Year's Eve or other festive occasions, the Romans also looked back on a long tradition of celebrating food as a central element of enjoyment, community and social prestige at their banquets, known as convivia. They were far more than just opportunities to enjoy food and drink - they served to cultivate social networks, demonstrate wealth and power and showcase the host. They reflected the diversity of Roman society - from modest meals in a small circle to opulent banquets where there were no limits to extravagance. As Varro describes in his Menippean Satires (335), there were four “search criteria” for a successful banquet:

The convivium typically took place in the so-called triclinium, a dining room or hall that took its name from the three couches (clini). These were arranged in a U-shape around a central table. This seating arrangement not only facilitated service by slaves, but also encouraged eye contact and communication between the guests. Each cline offered space for a maximum of three people, limiting the ideal number of guests at a banquet to nine. If there was not enough space, additional seating was provided.

The mosaic room of the Domus Quarta in the Roman Quarter - © Römerstadt Carnuntum (Photo: T. Mauerhofer)

In larger villas, there were often summer and winter triclinia that were adapted to the climatic conditions. Summer triclinia in open rooms with a view of the garden were particularly popular for enjoying the fresh air in the warmer months. Roman dining rooms can also be found in the civil city of Carnuntum: The mosaic room of the Domus Quarta probably served as a summer triclinium, the green salon] of the villa urbana as a winter triclinium. It was customary for invited guests to bring additional guests, so-called “umbrae” (shadows), which required flexibility and improvisation on the part of the host. The seating arrangements also followed strict social rules.  Women rarely attended at first, but from the imperial period onwards, wives and occasional female guests were also permitted. Nevertheless, many convivia remained purely male gatherings.

The convivium usually began in the afternoon, around the ninth hour (around 4 pm in summer or 2 pm in winter), and often lasted well into the night. Before the meal began, a table offering was made to the household gods (Laren) to give the celebration a religious framework. The meal began with a gustatio (starter), which was often accompanied by the sweet honey wine mulsum. This was followed by at least three main courses (fercula), which were prepared and presented with great care. Guests served themselves with their fingers or a spoon, as knives and forks, as we know them, were not commonly used as cutlery. The quality of the food depended heavily on the wealth and taste of the host.  While the elite served exotic dishes, simpler meals were common among the middle and lower classes. Particularly opulent meals included elaborately prepared meat dishes such as grilled game, stuffed poultry or smoked fish, often garnished with elaborate sauces. Excavations in Carnuntum have also provided evidence of oyster shells, for example, which were consumed as a delicacy.

The consumption of maris poma - seafood - played a prominent role in sophisticated Roman cuisine. - © Lower Austrian State Collections

Finally, dessert (mensae secundae) was served - fresh fruit, sweet pastries or savory snacks such as cheese with honey. The choice was not only a question of taste, but also an expression of luxury, as ingredients such as almonds, dates or cinnamon were considered expensive imports.

During the meal, the focus was on conversations ranging from politics and gossip to philosophy and literature. Sophisticated hosts organized musical performances, poetry and theater performances or storytellers. Acrobats, jugglers, dancers and trained animals also provided entertainment.

The meal was often followed by a drinking party (comissatio), which was signaled by the lighting of candelabras (candlesticks). Wine flowed freely and the atmosphere became increasingly exuberant. Typical activities included dice games, singing and sometimes lewd songs - the celebrations often lasted until the early hours of the morning.

A beaker made of white glass with ribbon-shaped glass thread overlays on the rim, in the center and in the foot area. - © Lower Austrian State Collections